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Trastevere

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From the beginning of Roman history (754-509 BC), the Trastevere area was an hostile part of the city belonging to the Etruscans. Rome conquered it in order to have the control of the river from both the sides. In any case, this had only a strategic aim, Rome was not interested in building anything on that side; in fact the only connection between Trastevere and the rest of the city was just a small wooden bridge called "Sublicius".

At the time of the Republic, a lot of people working on the river, such as sailors and fishers, was living in Trastevere. There was a lot of people coming from the East, too, mainly Jews and Syrians.

The area started being considered part of the city under Augustus, who divided Rome in 14 regions (regiones in Latin); the modern Trastevere was the XIV and was called Trans Tiberim.

Anyway, it really became part of the city with Aurelianus (270-275), who made larger protecting walls to include Trastevere and the Vatican hill. Thanks to the wealth of the imperial age, several personalities decided to build their villa in Trastevere: Clodia, Catullus' friend, and Julius Caesar (his Horti Caesaris). The regio included two of the most ancient churches of Rome, the Titulus Callixti, later called basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere, and the Titulus Cecilae, Santa Cecilia in Trastevere.

In the Middle ages Trastevere had narrow, winding and irregular streets; moreover, because of the so called mignani, jutting foreparts on buildings' fronts, there was no space for carriages to pass. At the end of the 1400s these "mignani" were removed, but, in spite of that, Trastevere remained a mazed of narrow streets. There was a strong contrast between the rich and big houses of richer people and the small damaged houses of the poorer ones. The streets had no kind of pavement until the end of the 1400, thanks to the will of Sixtus IV, who paved the main streets, first using bricks, then sampietrini, more suitable for the transit of carriages. In 1586, because of Sixtus V, Rome was divided again in 14 regions: Trastevere was the XIII and was together with another part called Borgo. Thanks to its partial isolation (it was "beyond the Tiber") and to its multicultural environment since the ancient Roman period, the inhabitants of Trastevere, called trasteverini, were considered almost a population of its own: they were people of known tenaciousness, pride and genuineness. Moreover the women from Trastevere were considered very beautiful because of their very dark eyes and hair and their pretty faces. In 1744 Benedict XIV made a revision of the limits of the regions of Rome, putting Borgo by its own and giving Trastevere the modern limits.

Trastevere still keeps its peculiarity thanks to its narrow streets covered by sampietrini, surrounded by original medieval popular houses. At night the streets are crowded by both Italians and foreigners because of the many establishments, stores, galleries and restaurants.

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During the 1950s Trastevere became the area where many foreign expatriates chose to settle, attracted by the authentic Roman atmosphere of its narrow streets and artisan shops.

The heart of Trastevere is Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere, where you'll find one of the oldest churches in Rome -- the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere. Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, it was first built probably between 221 and 227 by Pope Calixtus, and then reconstructed by Pope Innocent II in 1130, with the addition of a Roman bell tower. On the front one can see a twelfth-century mosaic of the Madonna enthroned with Child.

Trastevere is also the home of Porta Portese, the vast, open air flea market that takes place every Sunday morning. Here you'll find everything from antique bric-a-brac and vintage clothing to delicious "porchetta" sandwiches. The flea market usually sets up stalls around 07.00 and ends around 14.00.

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The Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere faces the square to which gives its name and represents the heart of one of the most typical quarters in Rome and the centre of the night life in Trastevere. In 1450 it was restored, by order of Nicola V, by the architect Bernardino Rossellini and in 1702 Clemente XI had the porch added according to Carlo Fontana's plan.

You can admire the interesting façade, decorated with a splendid mosaic representing the Madonna in throne, and the porch, erected by Carlo Fontana in the XVIII century according to Papa Clemente XI's will. A balustrade with four pontifices' statues overhangs the porch. At the church's side you can see the beautiful Romanesque bell tower which dates back to the XII century. The internal structure consists of three aisles divided by 22 ancient granite columns coming from pagan monuments. The beautiful floor, which recalls the style of the Cosmati Family, and the lacunar ceiling painted according to Domenichino's designs, are very interesting. Amid the windows you can admire the valuable mosaics by Cavallini representing the life of the Madonna.

A village in the center of the city